T-34 Model 1941 Step-by-step

Follow this page for step-by-step instructions on how to finish Dragon's 1/35 T-34 Model 1941.


Let's first do a quick wrap-up of the build before I get into the painting aspect of this model. Dragon's T-34 is a really fun and easy build with minimal issues. The only problems I ran into was the fit of the engine access hatch on the back panel. The hatch fit well into the hole, but the hinges on the hull didn't allow for the hatch to fit flush with the hull. To resolve this issue I cut off the hull hinges with an Xacto blade. Be very careful during this step, save the hinges you cut off. When I glued the hatch on I reglued the hinges to the hull. The photoetch engine deck screen is a great addition, but I decided not to use the hull box straps. I wanted to minimize the construction time and focus on the finish of the model.

 
The single link tracks were the last step of the construction phase. Single link tracks always seem to be the main detractor when building an armor model. I myself always dread assembling them. However, this time I enjoyed the process. I constructed a simple jig shown below to align the tracks prior to gluing. I made eight lengths of track links with the jig, and then glued two of the lengths together, which resulted in having two long lengths per vehicle side.
 

 
After letting the glue dry for ten minutes I wrapped the lengths around the running gear, and taped the two sections together on the top and bottom. NOTE, you must have a break (unglued) on the top and bottom of the suspension. If there is no break it will be nearly impossible to remove the tracks after assembly. After you properly fit and align the tracks, let the glue dry completely overnight. The next morning you'll have four track sections that can be easily removed from the suspension. The last step is to fill and sand the injection pin marks on each track. However, don't bother with the top links because no one will be down to look up and notice them. This assembly technique makes the track painting process a lot easier. I only spent about an hour and half total from sprue to assembled.


Following assembly I primed the model with enamel spray can primer. I prefer using enamel over acrylic for priming. The enamel primer really bits into the plastic surface and provides an ideal finish for acrylics.


 
Next, I sprayed AMMO's Russian Green 4BO. This was the first time I have ever used AMMO acrylics. My first impression is very positive. The color of the paint is lightened for scale effect. Furthermore, it sprays beautifully. I thinned it with Vallejo airbrush thinner (my AMMO thinner is on the way in the mail). Mixing 1/3 thinner and 2/3 paint and sprayed at 20psi provided the best results. There was very little tip dry while spraying. I had to only clean the tip 2 or 3 times, which is common for acrylics, during the entire painting process. The finish was perfect, satin and smooth.
 

One part I ended up repainting was the back screen. The Dragon instructions showed placing the screen under the back deck, which I did. However, after painting I just didn't like the way it looked. I removed it from the back and glued it to the top of the plate. It turned out to look much better and more accurate. I added bolt details by using Waldron's Subminiature Punch and Die Set. To fix the bolts to the photoetch I used Tamiya Clear, which is a great alternative to super glue. By using Clear I was able to control the flow much easier than trying to use super glue. After another coat of paint, the bolts were firmly attached.
  

 
Base coat completed.
 
 
Following the basecoat I airbrushed AMMO's Chipping Fluid Scratches Effects straight from the bottle.
 
 
I let the chipping fluid dry roughly 4 hours before proceeding to the next step. Once dry, I masked off the bands for the white camouflage scheme, and then airbrushed AMMO's White acrylic paint. I sprayed at 20psi and thinned the paint roughly 1:1 with AMMO's Acrylic Thinner.
 
 
When I removed the masking tape I noticed some of the chipping solution lifted off. At first glance the result looks worrisome. However, don't worry just brush water over the lifted areas. When the water dries the area will be perfectly smooth.
 
 
To remove the white paint start by wetting a soft bristle brush with water. Work section by section, pictured below. Brush the water onto the model and gently scrub the surface to remove the white paint. I use a variety of brushes during this process. Stiffer bristle brushes are ideal to remove paint that just doesn't want to come off. 
 
 
Another tool I love using during the chipping process is StyleX's Paint Stirrer. The stirrer is perfect for making scratches. I use both ends to obtain results.
 
 
Above is the final result of chipping. Right now it looks overdone, but additional layers of weathering and whitewashing will tone down the stark contrast.
 



The overstressed white wash was then toned down with a layer of AMMO’s new Washable White Camoflage. The washable white is new paint from AMMO and is chemically similar to the actual whitewash used on Russian vehicle. It is incredibly easy to use, and creates realistic effects. The effect created by the washable white is different than traditional chipping techniques. Using the washable white will give you a more worn effect. Following the additional whitewash I hand painted the distinct crosshatch pattern on the turret and hull. This distinctive pattern was employed by the 2nd Guards outside of Moscow in 1941.



The next step was to tone done the entire finish with a filter. The filter is a mix of Winsor & Newton black and white oil paint to create a grey filter. The grey filter is one word, cools the finish to represent a winter vehicle.

 
Following the filter I added an enamel wash from AMMO. 
 

The key when using a wash is control. Be sure to clean up the access wash around recessed areas and rivets, demonstrated on the road wheels.


Adding streaking grime is another key weathering effect.




A layer of chipping was added next.

The next big step in the weathering process was the dust/dirt effects. This process must be controlled and deliberate. Losing control of the airbrush can cause irreversible damage to the finish.



The first step is adding a very thin flat layer of dust to the running gear and horizontal surfaces. I used a mixture of Tamiya earth tones thinned by 90% using X-20A.
 

After the airbrushing of dust I made a mud mixture for the tracks and running gear. I use household plaster of paris mixed with AMMO nature effects.

 
I applied the mixture by blowing it on with an airbrush. I set my air pressure at 20psi for this technique. Again, less is more. Work slowly during this process, it could take up 3-4 hours for single vehicle. Multiple layers of dirt were added and progressed from lighter to darker tones.  



I also used the Nature Effects straight from the bottle to simulate dirt on the superstructure of the vehicle.
 
 
To paint the exhausts I used a range of colors from LifeColor. They dry dead flat, and with multiple thin layers a perfectly worn exhaust pipe can be created.


 
Dust is a critical element of armor models. To recreate dust I used a variety of light and darker pigments. I added different layers of each color and fixed the pigments using AMMO's Pigment Fixer. This was my first time using fixer and the only complication I had was a slight sheen was present when the solution dried. It was an easy fix by misting a flat coat on it.
 
 
After studying pictures more, I wanted to add one last layer of dark moist mud. I used Fresh Mud directly from the bottle to create this effect.
 

Oil was recreated by using AK's Engine Oil weathering enamels.

 
For periscopes I have always used Tamiya Smoke, which leaves a perfect glossy finish.
 
 
The last step is to add graphic to simulate bare metal. A No.2 pencil, artist graphite sticks, or AMMO's Gun Metal pigment can accomplish this effect.
 
 
Peko Publishing excellent book was the inspiration for this project.
 


 
All finished! Happy modeling!
 

 
 
 








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